Honor the bold and the brave for the life we live today

The Manila Bulletin’s 125th anniversary inspires Helm chef Josh Boutwood to look back at the style of cooking that has shaped Philippine cuisine and culture

A hundred years ago doesn’t seem that long in the grand scheme of time, especially with how quickly it feels like the years pass today. Yet I can only imagine how different the pace of life must have been back then.

A century ago, kitchens relied on open fires, wood stoves, and cast-iron pots. Everything was lovingly prepared by hand, with no shortcuts or modern conveniences. Today, we are gifted with an arsenal of technology that allows chefs to create dishes that would have been unimaginable in those times.

In the early 1900s, a chef in the Philippines was often just another member of the household, perhaps only occasionally rewarded with a passing “delicious!”—words that, I imagine, would fall on sweat-drenched ears.

In the early 1900s, a chef in the Philippines was often just another member of the household, perhaps only occasionally rewarded with a passing “delicious!”—words that, I imagine, would fall on sweat-drenched ears. 

Fast forward to today, and chefs have become household names, people of influence, and, for many, an inspiration to future generations.

Lately, we’ve seen a resurgence of recipes from centuries ago gaining popularity—not because of a lack of modern ideas, but as a way to honor the bold, creative, and frankly heroic cooks who laid the foundation of our local cuisine.

If I had access to a time machine, I wouldn’t travel back in time to steal recipes. I’d go back to witness firsthand the style of cooking that has shaped our cuisine and culture today.